We had a nice long winter, down here in Texas, that had enough chill hours for my fruit trees. Unfortunately, our bee population this early in the spring is pretty sparse. I had some hardships that made it impossible to get out and pollinate my pear tree. After I watched all of the small fruit abort I was faced with the next set of flowers in my fruit trees: my peach tree. To bee, or not to bee? I chose to help my tree out. I used the following guide on my peach today.
It took maybe twenty minutes to do all of the lower branches. I had a lone bumblebee helping me with the upper branches. I’m sure he (or she) did a much better job than I did! Hopefully, I see some results on the peach. Plant as many bee friendly plants as possible! They certainly need our help. Read on about plant sex, and how you can help, by hand pollinating.
Flowers are beautiful examples of sexual reproduction. We gather them, we create bouquets, we stick our noses into a plant’s sex organs and take a deep breath of intoxicating fragrance.
The idea of sex (at least when we look at our own species) seems to be incredibly more complex and inherently immature.
I will point to plants for transferable lessons in the beauty and enjoyment of sexual reproduction. Because: with flower sex, there are no immature experiences. Enjoying a flower is simple and healthy.
Plant sex: On display
Plants are never shy about reproduction. Those beautiful blossoms on your rose bush? Reproduction. The fruit you enjoy from the market? Reproduction. The nuts that provide fiber and protein in your diet? Reproduction.
Plants can’t walk around and find their ideal mate. Instead they are more like billboards attempting to get pollinators to look so they might entice them to stop by and enjoy some nectar (and to spread some pollen around while they are at it.) With a plant’s sexual reproduction: it is in the plant’s best interest to get noticed (although some trees like pears offer low quality nectar and are often passed over in favor of more nutritious fare. Other trees, like pawpaws, use flies who aren’t very interested or talented pollinators.) Pollinators create new offspring for plants, fruit and nuts attract animals to help with dispersal.
Humans select strains for the best fruit as far as taste and visual appeal. However, we create imbalance in the system when we don’t remember to select to attract and feed pollinators. I believe helping create healthy pollinators is going to become a necessary interest that must be included in the future of breeding and research in horticulture. It will be in recognition of the importance of the balance that nature strives to create.
What is the difference between hybrid and open pollinated seed?
These are legal definitions for plants. If you would like to know how and why these are separated in seed catalogs this is a great explanation: http://www.garden.org/subchannels/care/seeds?q=show&id=293&page=1 You need to know the difference before you start on the pollination journey.
Purposeful hand application of pollen:
As a home gardener, you can effectively focus on two different things in hand pollination. The first is to (1) purposely pollinate plants to create (A) a new hybrid or to (B) isolate and maintain pure strains:
(A) Hybridization (taking pollen from one desirable plant and placing the pollen on a second variety. With this method you are trying to create a better strain than either of the parents) will produce a new type of fruit but the seeds will not be stable. Reliably hybridizing takes more expertise than the average home gardener has. If you allow one of nature’s pollinators to do this you will get something unique next year if you sow the crossed seed (although you may not enjoy eating it.) Letting nature engage in hybridization is like the slot machine gambling of the plant world. You may hit the jackpot growing hybridized seed but more often you may just lose your money (with lesser quality plants than the parents, wasted garden space, water etc). I will admit to enjoying random crosses that grow out of discarded winter squash seed in my compost heap. Even if it’s merely to marvel at the possibilities that plant genetics can offer us!
(B) Keeping plant strains pure: The other part of this type of pollinating is isolating varieties to prevent hybridization. You will need isolation space (which varies per plant type), grow only one variety or use barriers like bags to keep what you have pollinated fertilized by only what you have chosen to place on it. You can try this if you have had a few successful seasons in your home garden and feel ready to expand your skills. You can learn more about keeping open pollinated seed strains pure or creating new hybrids here: http://www.seedsavers.org/Education/Seed-Saving-Resources/
and here: http://www.seedsavers.org/Education/Seed-Saving-Instructions/
If you are a seasoned gardener, I suggest this site: http://seedalliance.org/index.php?mact=DocumentStore,cntnt01,download_form,0&cntnt01pid=12&cntnt01returnid=139
(I always encourage people to support seedsavers.org. They are a genetic bank for open pollinated and heirloom strains of vegetables. They are maintaining diversity which is in complete opposition to GMO and hybrid seed companies like Monsanto.)
The second part is 2) Lack of pollination: The second focus in hand pollination is to make up for a lack of pollinators. No bees is a big deal! When sexual reproduction in a vegetable or fruit garden is bee reliant, you can intervene if there is a lack of them. Just make sure you add bee attracting flowers next season. You aren’t going to want to have to totally replace the bee’s handiwork. They work hard!
Where we fit in:
Just like humans can sometimes use help with fertility: plants that use sexual reproduction can use our help as well. Male and female organs on a plant use pollination to reproduce. Here is a list of common vegetable plants and how they reproduce: http://www.harvesttotable.com/2009/05/how_vegetables_are_pollinated/
There are three main categories of pollination and gardeners can easily affect them:
A: Pollination by wind. This happens between separate male and female flower parts found on plants like corn (how to hand pollinate corn: link) You can help these plants along by physically rubbing the male pollen onto the female flower to increase your chances of fertilization. You can specifically help corn by cutting off one of the tassels (located at the top of the plant)
and knocking pollen onto the silks as they emerge (found closer to the middle of the plant).
B: Self-pollination: This happens within the same flower like tomatoes (how to hand pollinate tomatoes: link ) The key for these plants is agitation: grab a stem and give the plant a good shake. It is a little like what a good wind or rain storm would do. Self pollinating plants have their male and female parts close together. The pollen needs to drop a very small distance onto the stigma. Grabbing the plant and giving it a good shake will help knock loose pollen from the anthers onto the stigma.
C. Animal pollination. Where a plant relies on something in the animal kingdom to spread pollen from plant to plant. Examples are bees, butterflies, moths and other insects pollinating your home vegetables and fruit trees. Here is a list of plants and their pollinators: link
Ideally you have a ton of bees in your yard from avoiding insecticides and other chemicals while ensuring you plant nectar and pollen rich flowers. This should create conditions to assure that you have pollinators already on your property eager to pollinate your fruits and vegetables. Even so, early in our season we are short on pollinators. Unfortunately, most suburbs are surrounded by miles and miles of a monoculture of lawn grass. Homeowners struggle to keep weeds out of their lawns just so neighbors (or an HOA) don’t judge them for noncompliance. While homeowners are planning their herbicide attack they don’t notice the hum of bees enjoying those same weeds.
I hope within the next decade we start looking at the ground around our homes as the potential to support nature rather than trying to enforce an arbitrary idea of beauty. Humans seem to enjoy battling the way things work in nature by forcing the unnatural concept of perfectly manicured lawns. Try removing as much grass as possible and replacing it with pollinator friendly, native plants.
When does it make sense to hand pollinate?
Cucurbits are number one on this list of home fruiting plants that have issues with pollination. Cucurbits include: winter squash (which includes pumpkins), summer squash, melons, cucumbers and gourds. They produce large fruits on a bush or a long sturdy vine. If you have struggled getting these plants to produce for you, it may be time to start looking at pollinating the flowers yourself.
Identifying male and female flowers on cucurbits:
In the cucurbitae family there are separate male and female flowers. Once you can tell the difference between the sex of a flower, you can try your hand at pollinating.
These are the male flowers. They are easy to identify because they will be on the end of a long straight stem and covered in pollen. The male part of the flower is called the stamen. There will be a long filament that has a pollen covered anther at the end.
At the end of the stamen is the anther. This is where you start. The anther is where the pollen (which is male) is found that is required for the female flower to produce fruit.
This is the female counterpart. You can spot female flowers by looking for the swollen ovary.
These will abort and fall from the plant if they are not fertilized properly.
Like most living things: the female reproductive organs are more complicated than the male organs. The entire length of the female part of a flower is called a pistil. Starting from where the pistil is attached to the base of the flower you will see a swollen area which is the ovary. It is full of potential seeds called ovules. Continuing up the pistil there will be a narrower tube called the style connected to the sticky tip of the pistil: the stigma. This sticky tip is what needs to be fertilized with the male pollen.
Here is a simple description that will give you a working foundation in hand pollination:
You don’t need to work with hundreds of flowers, just a few per vine. If they fail, go out and do it again, until you have the amount of fruit you are after. You will get better quality, larger fruit if you allow your plant to concentrate on only producing a few fruit per vine.
If you have to stand in for bees frequently, you will realize how much work these little garden friends do for us. I recommend making plans to plant nectar and pollen rich plants so you can attract these busy bees to your yard and save yourself the trouble of trying to do it all yourself.
The following is how I like to hand pollinate in small areas with large fruited plants:
I use a q-tip to gather and spread pollen. They are cheap and simple. I twirl it over several of the same species/variety of squash or melons. This is Thai Golden Round. Then I hunt for open female flowers and twirl the pollen onto the stigma. If you’ve done it correctly: the fruit will begin to grow and mature. If your attempt fails: the immature fruit will fall from the vine. You will have more chances and this is why I save and label my q-tips: I want to load as much pollen on them as I can. You can also use a small paintbrush or remove the male flower completely and rub it’s anther directly onto the female’s stigma.
You don’t need to be careful if you aren’t saving seed, but you won’t create a squash with watermelon pollen. You still need to focus on one species of plant, even if you choose to mix varieties of pollen from the same species of plants. Here is a good explanation of cross-pollination in cucurbits: http://www.walterreeves.com/food-gardening/squashpumpkincucumberwatermelon-pollination-explanation/
You can label your q-tip by putting a piece of tape on it and writing the variety you used it on. If you aren’t saving seed you can use the same q-tip for all of your pollinating (I am not currently saving seed because I am trialing too many, in too close of proximity, to keep the strains pure. Although I usually keep at least one q-tip for each: winter squash/summer squash, melon, watermelon etc. In this way I make sure the q-tip only contains pollen that will fertilize the species I am trying to grow.)
For more information including recipes, pictures and growing information: Here are some great links.
Learn all about melons: (This is a fantastic site out of Australia that includes growing information, recipes and reviews of melon varieties.) http://melonmaster.yolasite.com/
Learn all about squash: This site can take a while to load but it has reviews and recommended ways to prepare and consume pretty much any variety of squash, gourd and cucumber that you are growing. The site is listed alphabetically.) http://www.thenibble.com/reviews/main/vegetables/squash-glossary.asp
There you go! A simplistic guide to an incredibly complex field of study. Botanists can write the text books full of the complex how’s and why’s, but anyone with this simple guide can go out and enjoy becoming the bee!
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43 thoughts on “Be The Bee! How And When Hand Pollinating Makes Sense.”
Great post. Thank you for sharing. 🙂
Thank you for visiting! I appreciate it.
This is amazing!
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it. I love how many beds you have going. Good luck with the vine borers. We get two life cycles a season down here. They are awful!
Reblogged this on sliceofheaveninsweden and commented:
This give great information on how to help polinate your vegetables to maximize your harvest. I am going to try the advice myself.
Thank you for sharing! I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Wow, what an incredibly informative blog and such colourful photos too!
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate the visit!
Your prose is so lovely.
Thank you so much for the compliment and the visit! I appreciate it!
I am currently looking at a sink full of yellow summer squash and zucchini. Also a 5 gallon bucket of cucumbers and another 5 gallon bucket of summer squash and green beans. Since I am far from other people’s houses and insecticides, the bees and butterflys did a bang up job! (Well, that and the shovel full of rabbit manure I buried under each squash hill). But I have lived in subdivisions where my squash never set a single fruit on their own. Poor bees were the victims of all those “lovely lawns” with no insects. The most toxic place I have ever lived was next door to a beautiful golf course. The sprays they use to keep the grass perfect and make sure there are no mosquitoes to bother golfers kill every bug, good or bad in the area.
Great tutorial on this subject! As usual! And people need to know that the bees will absolutely NOT bother you in the garden. Most bee stings are from barefoot kids either stepping on a bee in clover or grabbing something and trapping the bee under their hand.
Here’s hoping all your readers get to that “massive squash overload” point of leaving mounds of extra zucchini on their neighbors’ doorsteps at midnight just to get rid of it. I may be almost there myself!
Thanks mom! I did learn what I know from some great gardeners. You are one of the best! Thanks for coming by!
Love the zinnias!! waiting for mine to bloom!
Thank you! Your food photos are fantastic! I think I’ve gained a few pounds just looking at them. I’m glad you enjoyed the zinnias. I’ve got several kinds growing this year. They are great even in our soaring summer heat. Thank you for the visit. I appreciate it!
My zinnias are always late– in So California we have a pretty long “summer.” I use the same spot where I grow sweet peas, so when the sweet pea vines come down I plant the zinnias for fall flowers. Yours look so bright and healthy!
Wonderful post! I did some hand pollinating with my zucchini when we were low on bees. But a few weeks later I started seeing more bees and decided to let them do the job. I would love to have a garden measuring more than 7 x 7.
Thank you for the compliment! I appreciate it. We’ve been in such an awful drought down here that our bee population has dwindled. I am still not seeing the kind of bee activity there was before the drought. Luckily we’ve done well this year with our rain. I think we’re going to be in a better position with our bees next season. I’d sure rather they did all the work! Good luck with your zucchini harvest!
I saw a lovely bee watering contraption on Pinterest you might want to try. A shallow pie pan with pebbles or marbles in it.
very well done! I have not hand pollinated yet in my garden, but thank you for explaining it and not making it sound too difficult:-) I think I can do that if I need to someday, but I hope it never comes to that in our world. YOu are so right about providing flowers for our bees that they can use. I have been taking out some of my doubles this year! They are useless for the pollinators:-)
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the post.
Thanks for commenting on my post. I really enjoyed your post! It’s come at a perfect time too because I’ve been having trouble with my cucumber plant. Thank you!
You’re very welcome! I’m glad I could help. Thanks for stopping by. I appreciate it!
My very first cucumber just flowered today. I’m hoping the bees can find it, and now I know what to look for in case they don’t. Great & timely post. Thanks!
I’m glad I could help! Good luck with your cucumbers and thanks for the visit.
Great article! You’ve really covered the subject well. Thank you so much for this! 🙂
You’re very welcome! I’m glad I could help. Thank you for the visit. I appreciate it!
Hey Green Thumb, and fellow Texan! Thanks for this article. The funny thing was, I was just thinking about this. I wrote a blog post last week about a program by the Travis County Sheriff’s department and the Honey Bee Protection Agency. http://fridayforgood.com/2014/08/01/bee-good/. Anyway, this morning I was thinking about it, and I wondered if a person could pollinate their own plants. We’ve all read about the plight of the honey bee. Now I know. Timely, inspirational and informative. Thank you. I will try to figure out how to link that blog to yours.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it. There’s a ton of things we can do to help bees and I recommend everyone read up on the subject. We’re out in the yard today doing mid-season clean up. It’s a good way to get heatstroke!
Oh, I agree. People from Texas don’t quite get how hot it is. And if you’re south, you’ve probably got some humidity to make it worse. I put a link to your blog at the bottom of my post! I hope you get some traffic from it!
Thanks for sharing!
Wow, very informative (and makes gardening sexy!) 🙂
Definitely sexy! I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for stopping by. I appreciate the visit!
This is so cool! Thank you!
Thanks! I’m glad you liked it.
I enjoy your prose and photos immensely. You inspire me to garden in the moment. I don’t know if you accept award nominations but here’s one for “one lovely blog.” Keep up the sonderful work.
Thank you very much! I don’t usually take award nominations, but I will look it up. Thanks for stopping by. I appreciate it!
Such a great blog post, love the photos as well!!
I noticed you liked one of my posts about my blog: Connect To Your Community Garden. Maybe you’d also like to join the campaign on Facebook or Twitter and get involved more in the conversation. You can find the links on our blog page: http://www.connecttoyourcommunitygarden.wordpress.com
I’m gonna play What’s That’s Squash! I wonder what cantaloupe and zucchini will produce.
You’ll need to Google curcubits and cross pollination because they form families that don’t cross. So squash to squash will cross but watermelon to canteloupe, or cucumber to squash won’t. It’s a really diverse group of fruits and what they will (and will not) cross with is pretty complicated! I’m sorry I didn’t see this earlier! Thanks for leaving a comment and good luck crossing your squash!